Washington wine country has had its skeptics. “When my grandfather claimed that the best wine grapes could be grown here, I remember people telling him that he was crazy,” says JJ Williams. Turns out that Williams’ grandfather was a visionary. Today, three generations of his family are at the helm of the successful Kiona Vineyards just outside of the Tri-Cities, a desert region east of Seattle and well past the Cascade Mountains where dry, flattened hilltops peppered with sagebrush once lacked electricity, water and people.